Thursday, July 21, 2011

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

Well, that was unexpected.

When Nick, proprietor of my friendly neighborhood Willows Market, suggested that I try a new (to me anyway) sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, I was delighted -- and thought I knew what I was in for.  I often reach for a Marlborough when I want a crisp, flavorful, easy-drinking white on its own in the afternoon.  There are a number of labels that consistently deliver exactly what I expect -- Nobilo, Babich, Monkey Bay, the beloved King Shag (from Trader Joe's) -- and with one of my Willows girlfriends (you know who you are!), Kim Crawford has become almost a cliche for our afternoon get-togethers.  But when I popped into the Market to pick up a couple of bottles to taste along with Nick's recommendation, the Kim Crawford was sold out, so I grabbed a couple of others, figuring they're all pretty much the same anyway.  Boy, was I wrong!

When a girlfriend stopped by in the late afternoon for a quick beverage, we decided to open a bottle: Clifford Bay 2009 Awatere Valley - Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  The first sniff was as expected, with the zippy scent typical of these wines.  But after a few sips, there was an awkward pause -- and then we both admitted we didn't love it.  The typical tart taste gave way to a strongly bitter aftertaste -- like eating a grapefruit and then chewing on the peel.  A few more sips, and another awkward pause . . .  I should disclose that this particular friend and I have never had a problem finishing a bottle of wine, much less a glass -- but we gave up on this one.  (Perhaps, we thought, it would be better with food -- so I put it away until dinner time.)

Take 2: Ponga 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  This was a totally different wine.  From the first whiff, it had a light, floral scent.  We definitely tasted citrus, but more of a lemon drop than a grapefruit peel.  It was so light, we thought it was less like a sauvignon blanc than a pinot gris or viognier.  We were both relieved, I think, but not in love -- so it was time to move on.

The third time's the charm: Riverby Estate 2009 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was the closest we came to what we expected from a sauvignon blanc, if not the quintessential Marlborough flavors.  What we love about sauvignon blanc typically is that it is light, fresh, refreshing, and drinkable.  As my mother-in-law would say, it's a wine that doesn't take over the conversation.  Like a good party guest, it fits in, makes everyone comfortable, livens up the scene, but doesn't draw attention to itself.  At this point, my husband came home and had the good luck to start with the Riverby before trying the Ponga and the Clifford Bay.  We all agreed the Riverby was our favorite.

We typically enjoy Marlboroughs with Asian food, so for dinner I made minced chicken with chiles and basil in lettuce cups.  As much as I like the Riverby, I didn't think it held up very well to the spicy, salty food -- so I decided to give the Clifford Bay a second chance.  I'm so glad I did, because the wine was really rehabilitated the second time around.  I won't say it was delicious, exactly -- but it stood up nicely to the food.  The acidity in the wine was a nice counterbalance to the fish sauce in the chicken, and best of all, the strong flavors in the food seemed to counteract the bitter aftertaste we had experienced when we tried the wine on its own.

If I thought I knew what to expect from Marlborough sauvignon blanc, I was wrong -- and I clearly have a lot to learn.  Yes, I'll keep reaching for my tried-and-true favorites, but I'm also happy to keep trying new bottles, and I'm always open to suggestions.  

For the record, The Willows Market supplied us with a free bottle of the Clifford Bay 2009 Awatere Valley - Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  I bought the Ponga 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and the Riverby Estate 2009 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at the Willows Market for about $10.99 and $16.99, respectively.  I have not received any other compensation for this posting.  I have linked to other websites for convenience; however, I take no responsibility for the content of any third-party websites.

4 comments:

  1. Interesting! I've felt conflicted about Clifford Bay, too, but didn't think about how drinking it alone vs. with food would affect the taste.

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  2. I don't usually think in terms of letting a white wine breathe before drinking, but do you think the fact that the Clifford Bay had been opened some time before dinner had something to do with your second impression?

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  3. @KB: I couldn't help mentally comparing it to the Monkey Bay we had over the weekend, which went down so easy w/out food (unless you count the chips, bbq, pie, etc....)

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  4. @Paul, I thought of that, but I don't think so, since I had put it back in the fridge with the screw cap on, so I am not sure how much breathing went on during that time.

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